September 17, 2012

Savoring Summer with Gazpacho


There is nothing better than in-season fruits and vegetables, and this is especially true for tomatoes! One thing that can truly ruin a meal for me is biting into a watery, mushy or too tart tomato. These fruits play a huge role in many of my favorite dishes that I find myself longing for summer for the firm, juicy, slightly sweet yet acidic tomatoes it yields. What better way to celebrate the last few weeks of tomato season than with a perfectly refreshing dish that won’t weigh you down: Gazpacho!

My love affair with tomatoes is further cultivated by the many varieties.  Plum, grape, cheery, heirloom, brandywine, the list can continue, but no matter the type tomatoes they are a significant source of vitamins A and C, as well as potassium. Tomatoes are also rich in lycopene, which has been linked to reducing risks of cancer and heart disease. So feel free to mix up your tomato selection – you’re still reaping all the benefits!
Gorgeous summer tomatoes before the blender!

You can get quite creative with gazpacho, playing up the different notes of spice, smokiness, or tartness by adjusting the proportions of the ingredients. I’ve highlighted different ways to customize this dish throughout the recipe below, so everyone’s taste buds should be satisfied!

Summer Gazpacho
6-7  large, ripe plum tomatoes
1 large, ripe heirloom tomato
1 large cucumber, peeled and diced
1 small orange or yellow bell pepper, chopped and seeded
½ cup red onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, sliced
1 Tbsp jalapeno, diced (or more if desired)
Zest and juice of 1 lime
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
½ tsp cumin
¼ tsp paprika
¾ cup unseasoned tomato juice
¼ cup cilantro or basil, divided
Sea Salt and Pepper to taste
Ricotta Cheese, if desired

Place a fine mesh sieve over a large bowl. Slice tomatoes lengthwise and scoop out cores into the sieve. Let juices drain while you roughly chop the tomato exteriors. Using the back of a spoon, gently push tomato cores through the mesh sieve (discard any remains and seeds).  Add chopped tomatoes to the bowl.  If you’d like a slightly smokier flavor, lightly coat the sliced plum tomatoes with olive oil and roast them on a cookie sheet for 20 minutes at 400°F.

Add the next 9 ingredients to the bowl and toss to mix. This recipe is pretty mild in spiciness, so if you would like to turn up the heat add more jalapeno (and make sure you get the seeds in there). For those of you who like your gazpacho to leave your lips puckering from tartness, add a ½ tsp of red wine vinegar and 1 tbsp of lemon juice. Next, slowly pour in the tomato juice in two turns. Depending on how much juice you were able to extract from the tomatoes, you may not need the entire ¾ cup of tomato juice. I add a small amount of juice at a time until the mixture is about one-third submerged in liquid.

Using an emersion blender, blend ingredients to desired consistency. Add cilantro or basil, leaving a few leaves for garnish. Blend for 10 seconds. If you do not have an emersion blender, 1) you should be dropping hints that you want one the next time your birthday rolls around and, 2) a normal blender or food processor will do the trick. If using a blender or food processor, transfer half of mixture to the blender and blend until desired consistency is reached. Repeat with remaining mixture. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Divide gazpacho among 4 bowls and top with croutons (recipe). If you’re feeling adventurous or more Italian ricotta add a dollop of ricotta cheese atop the croutons. Ricotta is one cheese that is often overlooked and thought to only be a pasta filling, but this mild cheese acts as a perfect slightly rich compliment to acidic dishes. Garnish with a few cilantro or basil leaves, serve with a cold beer and let your taste buds enjoy the taste of summer!




September 3, 2012

Sunday Shenanigans and Herb Roasted Chicken with Kale


One of my favorite things about cooking is that it gives way to sharing ideas, conversation and experiences. The best chefs would not have some of their signature recipes if it weren’t for their mentors, teachers, friends and family that influenced them and sparked creativity in different ways. This post comes from a good friend, mentor, foodie, southern gentleman and one of the few people I trust to give me absolutely perfect advice on shoes.  (Ladies, we all know how important the last one is!)

This NYC resident is a southerner at heart who cannot stand it when people walk and talk on their cell phones. He is an impeccable dresser with an eye for detail and is not afraid to push the boundaries while still looking debonair. Most importantly, he has an appreciation for food that rivals my own and has introduced me to some delicious recipes over the years.  You’re in for a special treat! This herb roasted chicken will melt in your mouth and leave you completely satisfied without feeling over indulgent.


Herb Roasted Chicken with Kale
¼ c. Fresh Rosemary
¼ c. Fresh Thyme
4 Garlic Cloves
½ tsp Celery Seeds
½ tsp Whole Peppercorns
½ tsp Coarse Sea Salt
½ c. Olive Oil
1 Lemon, zested and cut into thin slices
4 Chicken Breasts (bone-in, skin on – about 3 lbs.)
One bunch of cleaned kale leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

Method
To make the marinade, remove the thyme and rosemary leaves from their stems and place in a mortar and pestle along with garlic cloves, celery seeds, whole peppercorns, and sea salt. Grind ingredients to create a dry paste with the consistency of pesto. To this mixture, add the lemon zest and olive oil, stir to combine.
A kitchen without a mortar and pestle is being deprived of a great and versatile tool, but a ceramic bowl and mug can be used as a substituted. 

Place the chicken breasts, marinade, and lemon slices in a plastic zip top storage back. Gently mix to coat each chicken breast and distribute the lemon slices (be careful not to pierce the bag as there may be a few sharp edges on the bones of the chicken). Once combined, press as much air out of the bag as possible and seal. Place the sealed bag into a second zip top bag or large bowl and refrigerate for 4 – 6 hours.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place a large cast iron skillet over medium high heat. Remove the chicken breasts from the marinade and place in a shallow dish skin side up – season with salt and pepper to taste. Once the cast iron skillet is hot (test the temperature with a drop of water, if it dances and evaporates the skillet is hot enough), place the chicken breasts in the skillet skin side down. There will be some splattering and hissing but leave the chicken undisturbed for about 2 minutes or until the skin is a light golden brown. Turn the chicken over and roast in a 375 degree oven skin side up for 30 – 45 min or until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees on an instant read thermometer.

Remove the chicken from the skillet to rest. Carefully spoon off half of the excess oil and fat leaving as much of the juices from the chicken as possible. Place the skillet over medium heat and add the kale. Using a wooden spoon, keep the kale moving to help it wilt and sauté. There is no need to add any seasonings, as the natural moisture in the kale will deglaze the pan and coat the kale with the drippings from the chicken as it wilts and sautés.

The kale is done once it reduces in volume by about two-thirds and is a deep golden brown – about 5 to 7 minutes. At this point the chicken is fully rested and ready to serve.


Hearty leafy greens are a great compliment to this chicken as the flavors of the veggie won't be overpowered by the chicken. 

Shenanigans with a Southern Foodie
There is something about the simplicity of roasting chicken that is comforting and satisfying to even the most discerning diner. This recipe is a take on the classic herb roasted chicken where the cavity would be stuffed with herbs and citrus to infuse the meat as the bird roasts. Skin-on, bone-in chicken works best for roasting – the skin helps keep the meat moist while also basting the meat as the fat renders out, while the bone too assists in moisture retention it also adds a flavor that is paramount to roasted meat. I remove the skin before serving.

Though this recipe requires a little more prep work, it is perfect for a couple or single person because the whole pre-portioned pieces are easier to store individually. Better yet, two chicken breasts can get me through two dinners as well as two lunches. The recipe makes four pieces and I usually wrap and freeze two pieces of the chicken for those days I don’t feel like cooking after work.

I find grinding spices and herbs by hand in a mortar and pestle to have complete control over the texture more fulfilling than using a blender or food processor. However, the marinade can be made by combining the herbs, spices, and ¼ cup of the olive oil in a blender or food processor. As the mixture begins to resemble a pesto, slowly pour in the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil. Add the lemon zest last and pulse to combine.

Many roasted chicken recipes call for the use of a neutral oil such as canola so as not to mask the flavors of the herbs and chicken itself. However, I find that the light fruitiness of the oil pairs very well with the woodiness of the rosemary and thyme, as well as the bitterness of the lemon zest. I use the same marinade for charcoal grilled chicken only I double the amount of rosemary and peppercorns. Don’t be afraid to experiment with the herbs, spices, or citrus – when I have fresh sage on hand, I usually throw in a few leaves for an earthy and aromatic dimension.

Lastly, the kale. When I think roasted meat, I always imagine root vegetables surround the meat as it cooks, becoming fork tender and absorbing the drippings. However, I have discovered that much prefer cooking cruciferous vegetables such as kale, brussels sprouts, or cabbage in the pan drippings. The natural moisture in the vegetables seeps out during cooking deglazing the pan and helping to create a light sauce that coats the vegetables.

Just be sure to skim off as much of the excess fat and oil from the pan before cooking the vegetables. If you have cooked and cooled quinoa on hand, add a cup to the kale during last minute or so of cooking just to warm it through. The chewiness and nuttiness of the grain creates a nice juxtaposition to the mild and earthy flavor of the tender greens.


A huge thanks to Omar Love for sharing his wonderful recipes and for all his culinary advice and support! 

Who are some of your favorite cooking companions or inspirations?